Lakbayin #4: Pinaglabanan Shrine, San Juan City

Metro Manila is actually a messed-up metropolis with a lot of history. Aside from the main spots like Intramuros, its neighboring cities - Quezon City, Taguig, San Juan, among others - have pockets of Philippine history worth visiting.

Scenic? Yes. Historic? Yes. That building to the left? SPOILS IT ALL, YES.

Aside from the usual Spanish this, Spanish that features left behind by 300+ years of colonial rule by Spain, the world's most notorious texting hub possesses small, fascinating finds worth looking into, if you're into reviewing Philippine history (or its formation into the republic we know today). I found one with the limited range I can get with my bike currently, nestled comfortably in the quiet heart of the old city of San Juan, Metro Manila.



The city itself is historical - as a town/barrio existing by name as far back as the 1600's. Within it resides the Pinaglabanan Shrine, a national monument and park depicting what could be the second most shiznit event of the 19th century (the first being Rizal's execution, at least for me): the opening salvo of the 1896 Philippine revolution against Spain.

San Juan and nearby cities; map courtesy of Google

Circled in red in the above map is the shrine's location, in the corner of the streets Pinaglabanan and N. Domingo. "Pinaglabanan" is a Tagalog term that means "where the battle was fought" so it's quite a literal translation; bullets flew and bodies fell, literally, in this place a hundred or so years ago.

Ah, and I thought what was stocked here were heaps of guns and ammo.

The commemorative plate

The park is a welcome sight amidst the hustle-and-bustle of the Metro's environs- lots of trees, less humans, and very well-maintained.

That building is an eyesore though.

Speaking of trees? Fire trees populate the edges of the park, bringing a subtle reminder of the flame that burned in the hearts of Filipinos against the overdue oppression by foreign hands. Some may think it is romantic, or maybe that's just me.

Sweeeeeeeeet. Or so I thought.

The Shrine itself is a humongous pile of mysterious metal or maybe just bronze/steel, depicting a scene of struggle which the 1898 revolution was.

Awesomeness, molded in metal.

The Shrine also contains a neat assortment of other cool stuff like a tree nursery, and a small shed that seems like a mini-bunker for revolutionaries of old. 

It probably didn't look like this a hundred years ago, but it still looks cool!

Sadly though, this historic symbol of a revolt stronghold is besmirched with ink carelessly laid by vandals, and probably houses a few vagrants when the guards aren't looking.

Another thing worth visiting at the Shrine is the Katipunan Museum - the go-to place for (ideally) every student or history buff for things Katips. That time when I strolled around it was closed though, so I couldn't get any photo aside from ones of the facade.

I gotta visit this place when it's open.

Going back to the park environs, the Pinaglabanan Shrine is also adjacent to a very important structure in San Juan - the government center. Its old fortress look contributes a nice touch to the history of the place, and one can only hope that the people inside are really doing their jobs.

Most areas of the park are for quiet walks only - no wheeled crap is allowed to roll inside. Not even bikes.

On my first visit, I actually broke this rule. Good thing the guards were forgiving...

Now, how to get here?

Perhaps the best way to get around town is by exploring it - after all, a true adventurer doesn't mind getting lost... at least for a while. I included here some landmarks to go by, which by themselves are also very Katipunan-ish. The entire Pinaglabanan Shrine area is truly a time capsule wonderfully preserved (somehow) by the people of San Juan.

The modern Philippine flag and Katipunan flags running along N. Domingo St.

Pinaglabanan St. corner Jose Gil (Valenzuela) - Andres Bonifacio's commemorative "call to battle" statue stands here

Street sign

The plaque for Gat Andres

The main man of the revolution after Rizal

Author's note: All images were taken by me so I retain the creative rights for each and every one :) All photos were taken with a Nokia Lumia 900 and processed with Fantasia Painter Free (one of the most amazing apps for WP out there! ...and best of all it's FREE!)